went surfin

Location: Home
Waves: Chest-high on a short-arse
Board: 7’6″ Cross
Progress: Um starting line

I have decided that I should start to record all my surf sessions via this blog, as I did when I set it up about 20 years ago. (A rogue ISP deleted the whole bastard site so (fortunately?) the original posts aren’t up.)

Unfortunately, my surfing seems to have regressed about 20 years. I’m tragic.

Clean enough waves but a bit all over the place at the local, bit big for my new middie seeing as I can’t duck-dive it so wasn’t really sure what to do with 3ft closeouts heading for me. I hate ditching, turtle-rolls are slow and my bad arm hurts enough without ripping out of the socket.

Got a half-decent one and the board is sweet, so sweet. On smaller days it will be magic. It was sold via Boardshop as used, but there’s not a mark on it and the fins are crisp, so I don’t think it’s ever actually been surfed. It just has that new new feel, a whisper of dust from the shaping shack.

Then did some pop-up practice in the shallows, trying to follow Cris’s advice. My popup is definitely the problem here, and it’s gonna take some serious training to remember how I should be doing it.

I’ve been cold-water dipping, so there were no nerves about the temperature and I felt very comfortable getting out there, though (a good kind of) nervous about the new board.

By April, I’m going to be getting three good waves per session, even on shit days. Defo.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.