I love surfing all on my own because I can’t get in anyone’s way and no-one can see how bad I am.
And I don’t have to listen to the chatty surfers – I came here for peace and quiet, not to listen to more bloke-talk. Get enough of that at work – tractors, cars, football, sizes (they’re always talking about sizes…).
Anyway, Sunday morning it was small and clean, and several local surfers would definitely have been worse for wear and not up for it! Went for a cold dip with a few others, it’s very popular here now but again I usually go on my own. Then ran up to change and get the Cross. Perfect waves for trying it out. Only thing is I’ve not surfed anything over 7 foot for years, so I’m struggling to get through waves. Turtle-rolling is bloody inefficient, I can in no way duck-dive the thing, and I hate bailing, but sometimes it seems the only choice. I like holding on to the rail-saver and ducking under with the tail facing the wave, but I almost pulled my arm out doing that yesterday. Pushing up so the wave slides between me and the board is good, until it’s a closeout happening right in front of me. Crannog ain’t the easiest to surf – that’s why people who learn to surf here get good. (Apart from me, who has really regressed.)
I also have a wee bit of a problem with the crappy left arm, which is super weak since a bad bout of tennis elbow. And no, I haven’t been doing my therapy as much as I should. I can’t grab the rails without pain, and have to push up on flat hands.
So this dude has a technique I haven’t seen before called rocket ship – sitting on the back of the board then shooting up and over the wave. Again that’s not going to help if a curtain of water 3ft high is detonating in front of me. But I like it.
So I have to think more carefully about where I paddle out (rip if it’s there) so I’m not dealing with lots of duck-diving, and will just have to bail when it’s the best option.
I got one decent wave and am surfing too far forward on the board, because I’m used to having less board in front of me. I’ll get used to it. The extra volume definitely makes it easier to surf; it wanted to go, no bogging.
Small waves again today but I’ve been mostly asleep?! Hope I’m not getting sick like half the rest of the village!