Saturday was a strange work day, as I actually spent most of it surfing! Staff spend a lot of time on the water, but I am mostly land-based, and sometimes that’s so hard.
As the tide dropped, small clean lines starting pouring around the point and the lifeguards traded time on their ski. I took a Hellcat foamy out (apt) once all the customers were on the water. It looked tiny from the office window, but was in fact a decent foot or so, and fine for a foamy. I had to sit almost on the rocks of the end of the main harbour and it’s a good job all the trip boats had cancelled their morning.
Had a good hour of little lines off the main point, with just a guy on a hard SUP.
I lost count of how many waves I had once I had worked out how to surf the Black Pig (never mind Hellcat), and played with cross-stepping on the waves that I was going to fade off the back of anyway.
They were all lefts at first, so it was backhand joy, crouching low to get any speed, slow turns on the pig. But the popup is better, and the fun was first-class. And it was sunny.
As the tide dropped so did the waves, and I moved to an a-frame coming in over the boats’ channel. So I got a couple of rights as well, and the takeoff was nice and peaky. Perfect day, then home to a meal with a friend watching the sun set.
