It’s been a week of almost constant swell, which is almost unheard of up here in West Wales.
Some of it has been a bit too much for me, including yesterday which was 4ft and heavy. It was take off and pull straight into a barrel, and I don’t have the skill for that (yet!). So I paddled out but mostly stayed on the inside to catch the smaller ones that were coming through off the drop. I had one or two but nothing great.
As the tide dropped further, those disappeared and it was just big closeouts with enough makeable waves for Sam, Vinny, Pob and Danny to shine.
The smaller days have been better for me, but it’s been a privilege to watch my home break go off and the locals catch the best waves. I wish I still had access to pro photography gear!






