Just an absolute legend. Can someone please write her bio soon? (Can it be me?!) And a biopic, too – feature-length.
I mean, you could just run this on repeat for a while.
And if it’s not displaying…take the time to click thru.
I can hardly stop looking. She’s on it, casual as you like but fully committed – then she’s hopped off the board, and with perfect form just drops down the face, making her entry and ready to take what would be the beating of a lifetime for most other surfers. It’s a long – long – long old drop down a 20-foot face. It’s insane. It’s the first time women have been allowed to enter the Eddie, and I guess she’s been waiting all her surfing life for it.
Then she paddled back out. Unstoppable.
Oh, one day I must go to the North Shore. I must sit quietly and watch these monsters ridden, and hope to catch a glimpse of KK, and all my other heroes.