The Indian summer was more like a French summer for one glorious hour this week. I know the surf has been much better elsewhere, but in the absence of a camper van (yes, I’m banging on about that again) I have to ignore ‘elsewhere’.
Anyway, wouldn’t want to be elsewhere when the Nog is going off. Clean, 3ft, grinding, sandy dredgers, steep fast takeoffs with often nowhere to go but a hell of a ride towards it, blue skies and hot enough for my eyebrows to feel like they were burning off. Could almost have done away with the wetsuit. Yes it only lasted an hour, but it was like Hossegor. And there was a huge, huge bull seal eyeballing me in the lineup.
Had a session last week where I caught innumerable wonderful waves, lost count of how many and how happy I was with them. This is the usual autumn awesomeness where I feel fit and like I can actually surf well. Even had the best surfer in the area saying, that was a really nice last wave. Why thank you (no need to sound quite so surprised!). My board smacked me on the head hard enough after one wipeout to have me spitting blood from a bitten tongue and to give me mild concussion, but it was worth it.
New tootsie design, last of the summer! Waves, of course…
And I have got loads of sea glass and found some courses. I’m super keen. Here’s the most beautiful teardrop piece, a perfect pendant. I’ll have trouble selling what I make! I also found a super-rare amber piece! And some more darker greens. Very lucky. Low tides and waves bring it up.
An octopus came up on the beach last week. Dad says the Gulf Stream has switched up to Scotland, so things might be off track. Some guy walking or fishing around Lochtyn headland fell off the track all right, and the inshore and helicopter came to get him, drama on the beach – extremely skilled pilot to land here.
Otherwise, things are being a bit frustrating. I’ve lost one of my mother’s tortoises, which is going to cause trouble, not that it’s my fault. Trying to be helpful and organise things has led only to stress. I’ve done too many shifts in the pub and totally lost my sense of humour with the stupid questions people ask and the petty egos of others. WordPress updating broke my other blog (http://www.perfectlyput.co.uk) and writing hasn’t been going that well, though I’ve just done a chapter now, at last. I generally can’t be arsed, in fact, and sincerely hope this passes soon!
Need to get out of the village methinks – back to that campervan…
